Out of the studio
Correction, coating, tinting and full details. The finishes speak better than the copy does.
Recent work
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Two-Stage Correction
A cutting step to take the defects out, then a refining step to bring the clarity back, then a coating over the top. Two-stage is the usual recommendation before any coating, because it removes the large majority of swirls without taking more clear coat than it needs to.
Ceramic Coating
Corrected paint locked in under Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra, a coating released only to installers Gtechniq has trained. The visible result is depth. The result you live with is a car that washes in half the time and stops collecting swirls every time it gets cleaned.
Wheels Off Detail
Faces, barrels and arches, with separate equipment from the paintwork so brake dust never crosses over. Then a coating rated for the heat a wheel face actually sees, which is not the same product that goes on bodywork.
Interior Detail
Hot water extraction through the carpets and fabric, steam into the vents, seams and switchgear, then leather cleaned and conditioned with pH-appropriate product. The work is in the places you cannot photograph, which is why interiors take longer than people expect.
The detail
The difference is the light
Swirl marks are only obvious under direct sun or inspection lighting, which is exactly why so much paint looks acceptable in a garage and disappointing in a car park.
When we photograph work, it’s under the same lighting we correct under. Anything else flatters the result and tells you nothing.
How correction worksWant your car photographed?
We shoot most cars before handover. Ask when you book and we’ll send the images through.
Call 0470 429 866How to read a detailing photo
Most galleries are lit to hide the thing you should be checking.
Detailing is one of the few trades where the marketing photograph can be more flattering than the work. A wet car under overcast sky looks corrected whether it is or not. Knowing what to look for is worth more than any gallery, including this one.
Look at the reflection, not the shine
Shine is easy. Any glaze or spray sealant produces it for a fortnight. What you want is a reflection with defined edges. If a corrected panel is reflecting a building, the window frames in that reflection should have hard lines. Fuzzy, soft-edged reflections mean the surface is still scattering light, which means the swirls are still there under whatever was applied on top.
Check the shot was taken in the sun
Swirl marks are only obvious under direct sunlight or inspection lighting. Overcast days, shade and evening light all hide them, and a car photographed while still wet hides them completely, because the water fills the scratches and the surface behaves as if it were level. A gallery shot exclusively on grey days or in a dim garage is a decision, not a coincidence.
Look at the hard parts
Anyone can polish the middle of a bonnet. The work shows up around badges, along panel gaps, at the base of the windscreen, inside door shuts and on the sharp curves of a bumper, because those are the areas a machine polisher cannot simply be run across. If a gallery only ever shows flat panels shot from a distance, that is worth noticing too.
Be sceptical of before and after pairs
A dirty car next to a clean one proves a wash happened, not that correction did. A genuine correction comparison is the same panel, same angle, same light, with half of it taped off. Anything else is a lighting change dressed up as a result.
We shoot under the same lighting we correct under, which is not always the most flattering choice. How correction actually works covers what is happening to the paint in these photos.
Want your car looking like this?
Tell us what you’re working with and we’ll come back with a recommendation and a price. Open 7am–9pm, seven days.